Trip Report: Arctic Circle Skiing in Narvik, Norway’s Northernmost Ski Resort

Ski Safari’s destinations are all unique, but some stand out as being particularly special. Narvik, all the way up in the Norwegian Arctic Circle, is one such resort and somewhere I’d always hoped to visit and learn more about.

So, when I found out I’d be heading there on a research trip with Scandinavia Product Manager Andy Hemingway and Claire and Anna from our Operations Team, the excitement started to build. But I didn’t fully know what to expect. Would we be freezing cold, sleeping in ice caves, or dodging polar bears and reindeer on the pistes?

As it turned out, it was the most scenic ski area I’ve ever been to, and the trip stands out as one of my most memorable experiences in nearly 40 years of skiing.

When you look at Narvik on a map, you realise how far away it is - 68.43 degrees north, to be precise. There aren’t any direct flights from the UK, so you fly via Oslo. This can be done in a couple of ways. Either have a short connection in Oslo Gardermoen (one of Europe’s more civilised airports), or you can do as we did and opt for a longer connection and spend a few hours exploring downtown Oslo.

The Airport Express Train arrives at Oslo Central Station every 10 minutes and takes just 19 minutes. Despite having flown into Oslo countless times to visit various ski areas nearer the centre of Norway, I’d never actually ventured into the city - I was pleasantly surprised by how easy the connection was, and how walkable the centre is from the station.

First, we headed down to the Opera House on the harbour, with a distinctive design that allows people to walk up its sloping roofs. Then we cut through a pedestrianised shopping district, past the National Theatre, and up to the beautiful Royal Palace, perched on a grassy hillside overlooking the city. After a coffee and a bite to eat, we hopped back on the express train for the next leg of the flight.

As our suitcases were still checked in for our next flight, we explored Oslo with just our hand luggage. We also spotted lockers at both the airport and Oslo Central Station in case we wanted to lighten the load. And don’t worry, duty-free alcohol purchased at the airport can pass through security for a domestic flight - ours was purely for research purposes, of course!

The second flight up to Harstad/Narvik airport became more and more interesting the further we flew. Signs of human life became scarcer, and the snowy wilderness and wild peaks of northern Norway started to appear beneath the clouds.

After walking around Oslo in t-shirts in the spring sunshine earlier that day, we’d been transported back to winter in Narvik - the mountains were glistening white and snowbanks piled around the airport buildings and along the roads. So remember to pack accessible warm layers!

We picked up our rental car for the 50-minute drive to Narvik and followed the coastline before crossing the Halogaland Bridge - the second longest in Norway. When we arrived, two things surprised us: how the sun was still shining, even well past 10pm, and how we didn’t struggle to find somewhere to eat at that time of night.

We opted for Nordre Matbar next to the central market, which served burritos, burgers and pizza, plus a range of craft beers - the perfect spread of food to mark our arrival in the Arctic.

We were staying at the ski-in, ski-out 3* Basecamp Narvik, right on the piste and a stone’s throw from the 10-seater Narvikfjellet Gondola. Every studio and apartment is on one side of the building, so each shares the same unobstructed, wondrous view over the town and fjord.

It barely got dark overnight (luckily the rooms had good curtains!), so the sun was beaming as we awoke to the spectacular view in the morning. The skier in me was eager to strap on my boots and hit the slopes right away, but I remembered that Narvik’s ski resorts revolve around the varied daylight hours throughout the season. With longer, lighter days in late spring (Narvik’s resort is open to 8pm during the week), I knew I had plenty of time to enjoy other activities before hitting the slopes later in the day.

First on the day’s agenda was a visit to the Polar Park - the world’s northernmost wildlife park, just over an hour’s drive from Narvik through the quiet wilderness. This fascinating centre is home to a selection of Norway’s predators, including bears, wolves, lynx and wolverines, as well as some gentler species like Arctic fox, moose and reindeer.

We enjoyed a guided tour around the expansive park, and it was incredible to see these amazing animals in their natural habitat, happily roaming their huge enclosures. While we were safely separated from the bears and the wolves, we were allowed to get closer and feed the cuddlier creatures, with the unanimous favourites being the super cute Arctic foxes.

On our way back to Narvik, we stopped off to meet Oscar, owner of the Kleksen Sauna Boat, for an Arctic Sauna adventure. Previously in the military, Oscar and his team now run snowshoeing and hiking tours to help people experience the outdoors in the incredible environment around Narvik.

When we arrived, Oscar had a campfire crackling in a snowy woodland clearing, complete with deerskin rugs and hot chocolate. Then, with a grin and a hunting knife, he carved us slices of cured reindeer heart - a Sámi delicacy. In the indigenous culture, no part of the culled reindeer goes to waste, so yes, even the heart gets smoked and shared!

Each of the team’s activities finishes at the sauna boat, a former mussel farming barge converted into a floating sauna. They’ve done an incredible job - there’s a warm changing room with a full shower, and to top it off, it’s still a fully functioning boat so they can cruise out onto the fjord. We stayed moored in the harbour while we used the sauna, and didn’t miss out on the opportunity to plunge into the icy Arctic waters of Ofotfjord to cool off. Breathtaking, literally!

Refreshed and back in the resort, it was finally time to head up for our first ski at Narvikfjellet, the snowy peak which had been calling to us from across the fjord all day.

The new Porsche-designed gondola whisked us up the mountain in a matter of minutes. Our guide, Thomas, told us he still couldn’t resist taking a photo almost every time he went up the lift, despite having ridden the gondola hundreds of times. As we climbed higher and higher and saw the full panorama of fjords and mountains stretching into the distance, we immediately understood why.

At the top of the gondola station, we all stopped and stood staring at the views in front of us for what seemed like hours. Many selfies and group photos later, we remembered that there was a whole ski area below waiting for us, so we cracked on!

There’s something for all abilities at the top, so we started by warming our legs up on the meandering green run which offered a leisurely and scenic route down the mountain. The snow was in great condition without even a hint of late afternoon slush, and to the sides of the piste, it looked like we might even score some late April powder!

All runs funnel down to the gondola, and after a few mellow laps, we split off to explore. I couldn’t resist the steeper off-piste lines through the trees, exploring some narrow gulleys and chutes - all completely untracked.

As we’d started skiing late, time was ticking by and it was nearing 8pm. A few clouds had rolled in and the sun was hanging lower in the sky, so we were rewarded with some beautiful colours and an unbelievable backdrop for our final few runs of the day.

Dinner that evening was at Furu Gastropub, recommended by almost everyone we spoke to. ‘Gastropub’ was definitely underselling it, this was not pub grub by any means! The menu is inspired by the North and uses all local ingredients, lovingly prepared and beautifully presented. We enjoyed all three courses and it really was excellent value for money, considering the quality of the meal and the level of service.

On our second morning, the wow factor of opening the curtains had not worn off at all. With a kitchenette in all of the units, morning coffee and breakfast on the balcony was a real pleasure.

We spent the morning visiting some of the excellent hotels we offer in Narvik. Some are located in the town, or just a five-minute drive or bus from the ski area. Others, like Basecamp Narvik, are ski-in, ski-out, so no time is wasted if you want an early start on the runs.

We then wanted to learn a little more about the history of Narvik and its importance as an industrial port town. The Narvik War Museum is right in the centre of town and tells the story of the Nazi attack and occupation during the Second World War. The sheltered port and a fjord that never freezes made it a major strategic target. In the spring of 1940, several naval battles raged in the waters of Ofotfjord with major loss of life, leaving dozens of ships sunk on the seafloor, a popular spot for professional divers.

The Ofoten Railway Line is also a notable feature of Narvik. Stretching up to 43 kilometres and connecting Sweden and Norway, this line transports tonnes of iron ore from the mines at Kiruna, Sweden, to the ice-free port of Narvik. A fun fact: in just one day, the railway transports enough iron ore to build four and a half Eiffel Towers!

The line also operates a local and tourist train service, which both pull over regularly to allow the 68-carriage freight trains to pass. We travelled on the Arctic Train, following a meandering route alongside the fjord, gaining altitude to cross a pass just before the Swedish border.

The snow started falling as we moved away from the sea and the temperature dropped significantly. As we reached the final stop at Bjornfell, the snow was so deep that the snowdrifts reached the top of the station buildings. Incredibly, they’re able to keep the line clear and operating through the winter.

We were just around the corner from Riksgränsen, the world’s most northerly ski resort and one of our destinations here at Ski Safari. For a Nordic trip like no other, our Arctic Circle Ski Safari combines Riksgränsen and Narvik, with the option to visit Björkliden too, with all three covered under the same lift pass.

As we arrived back in Narvik, it was clear it had been snowing heavily here too, so we couldn’t resist a couple of hours skiing before dinner. The good snow wasn’t the end of our excitement: the rest of the Ski Safari team had arrived for our annual end-of-season company weekend.

To celebrate, we spent the evening at Rallar’n Pub at the Quality Hotel in town, which welcomed us with wood-panelled walls, low ceilings and hearty food. We kicked off the weekend with toasts and challenges for the team, and the celebrations continued long into the evening.

As an experienced mountaineer at heart, I decided to make use of the light spring night that evening and took the opportunity to climb the mountain to catch a summit sunrise. So I kitted up, secured my skis to my backpack and set off up the hill, leaving the rest of the Ski Safari team to settle in for the night.

It was a long slog, gaining over 1,000 vertical metres, but it was one of my all-time favourite mountain experiences. Although rather faint, I’m pretty sure I saw the Northern Lights on the way up, and I reached the top just as the sun was peeking over the distant mountain tops to the north east.

It was a peaceful, personal moment, but that, and the solo ski back down, was something I’ll remember for a very long time, and I’ll always treasure Narvik for this experience.

After another amazing season sending thousands of happy customers on their own ski holidays, the day we’d worked hard for all season had arrived - the opportunity to enjoy the sport we all love with our friends and colleagues.

Narvik is the perfect place for any skier, with runs for all levels accessible from the main gondola. There’s a small beginner area and magic carpet right next to the gondola, mellow green runs which run through the trees, and some rolling blues where intermediates could build up speed and get in some big top-to-bottom laps.

But above all, Narvik is a dream for advanced skiers. There are a couple of steep blacks, a terrain park, and a World Cup run (the FIS Ski World Cup will be held in Narvik in 2029), all with the mesmerising ocean view below. The backcountry potential is also huge - from the top of the gondola, the ridgeline to the summit has countless couloirs and big lines with consistent pitch and lots of vertical.

A dreamy powder day under a bright Arctic sun meant spirits were high, so we all gathered for lunch at Fjellheisrestauranten before heading to the après (or ‘afterski’ as the Norwegians call it) at the bottom of the slopes to enjoy a DJ, barbecue and a pond skim competition. There were some impressive tricks, and quite a few soakings - even in the sunshine, that water looked icy cold!

The following morning, we had time for a few final hours on the slopes before our afternoon flight home. We opted for the shorter connection at Oslo, and our total journey time was impressively only four and a half hours, including the time between flights.

I can't emphasise enough what an absolutely incredible trip this was, packed with great skiing, interesting activities, excellent food and truly ‘pinch yourself’ views.

Narvik isn’t on the radar for most British skiers, but for those who want something a little different with scenery you just won’t find in many other places, plus an incredible all-round Arctic experience, I can’t recommend it highly enough.

I had an unforgettable time in Narvik, and with our whole team gaining first-hand knowledge of this charming resort with staggering ski slopes and mesmerising views of the Ofotfjord, you can trust us to plan your tailor-made ski holiday to the Arctic Circle. Call our friendly team of skiers and snowboarders on 01273 224060 (Monday to Friday) or enquire online to get the ball rolling.

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