Trip Report: Stunning Canadian Skiing in Banff & Panorama
Testing Our Continental Divide Ski Safari
From Banff's buzzing town and three 'see-to-believe' ski areas, to Panorama's ski-in ski-out convenience and intermediate paradise slopes, we had a bucket-list week testing our Continental Divide Ski Safari. I was joined by Norway & Sweden Product / Sales Manager Andy Hemingway, Sales Consultant Josh and Tour Coordinator Eleri.
This was my first time skiing (and travelling in general) outside of Europe. I grew up skiing in the Alps and have discovered the joys of Norway since joining Ski Safari - but how would Canada compare, and would it be worth the long flight to get there?
A seamless journey to Banff
We flew direct from London Heathrow to Calgary with Air Canada, so it would've been rude not to enjoy Air Canada's 'The Maple Lounge' before our flight. The flight was nine hours, which went quicker than anticipated - my top tips would be to plan what films you want to watch and savour the food!
From Calgary, it's a simple 1-hour 30-minute drive to Banff. You can do this ski safari by transfers, but we chose to hire a car for more flexibility. Pick-up was seamless, and the drive was as easy as could be - essentially a straight line down the Trans-Canada Highway, with great views as you enter Banff National Park towards the end of the journey.
Skiing Banff's 'Big3'
Mt Norquay - small, but mighty!
Our first ski day was at Mt Norquay, the smallest of Banff's SkiBig3 resorts, but it still has some seriously steep and fun terrain.
We hopped on the free shuttle bus outside our hotel to Mt Norquay, just a 10-minute drive from Banff. The mountain views en route had me super excited for my first-ever day on Canadian snow.
While Eleri, a lower intermediate, enjoyed a ski lesson, Andy, Josh and I (all advanced to expert level skiers/snowboarders) were guided around the resort by Stephen from SkiBig3. I'd describe Mt Norquay as a stunning resort that's a bunch of fun, with terrain for everyone.
We had so much fun - the Canadian experience delivered on day one! 15 seconds was the longest we waited in a queue all day, and that was with the 'busy weekend traffic'! The conditions were great, allowing for smooth carving as we took in the views.
Located just off the Spirit chairlift, Blue Run 36 Abracadabra was one of my favourite runs - wide, steep and super speedy. But the highlight for us all was taking the legendary two-seater North American chairlift, Canada's second-ever chairlift that was installed in 1948! We skied huge moguls down the steep Lone Pine run, a lap I won't forget!
My take on Mt Norquay is that it's a great place to prepare your ski legs for some bigger terrain in the other two resorts, and have a ton of fun while doing so. But don't underestimate Mt Norquay. It's small, but mighty - with some proper steeps that pushed me to the limit!
Lake Louise - the best ski day of my life
Our second ski day took us to Lake Louise (my personal favourite!). From Banff, it was a 40-minute drive, but this isn't something to be put off by. We left early enough to witness the majestic Rocky Mountain scenery as the sun rose, which made the drive a truly special part of the experience.
Having been voted Canada's Best Ski Resort 11 of the past 13 years in The World Ski Awards, we had high hopes for Lake Louise. And it managed to absolutely smash those expectations.
Photos will never do the views here justice. And as the largest in the Canadian Rockies, Lake Louise has something for every skier with 164 runs. And with one of the world's best backdrops to back it up, this is truly one of the best ski resorts in the world. I could have stared at the breathtaking scenery all day, with staggering peaks and unique mountain formations.
And it wasn’t just me who adored Lake Louise. Here's Josh's review:
"Having not been to Banff for over 15 years, I was excited to experience this phenomenal ski area again, and it did not disappoint. Conditions were perfect (Lake Louise had one of its best Decembers ever for snowfall), a deep base and a thin layer of loose snow on top. I loved the runs off the Summit Chair, where we were met with simply spectacular views. I also loved snowboarding into the backside from the 'Top of the World' lift, including cruising down the green run Saddleback."
"At the bottom of Saddleback was the brand new Richardson's Ridge lift, which opens up some great terrain with a mix of cruisey runs and advanced tree skiing."
"I love the fact that the expert terrain is so easily accessible in Lake Louise, coupled with the fact that there's a green run from every lift. However good you are, you'll fall in love with Lake Louise as we all did! And not forgetting to mention the on-mountain food. We chose to eat at Whitehorn Bistro - incredible food and the definition of dining with a view!"
I couldn't agree more with Josh. I had the best ski day of my life in Lake Louise. It was like skiing inside a postcard, and I had to pick my jaw up off the floor every run! This clip of Andy skiing back down to the Grizzly Gondola encapsulates just how dazzling the resort is:
Banff Sunshine Village - another unforgettable day
The transfer from Banff to Sunshine Village is a speedy 20 minutes, which flies by with yet more Rocky Mountains to stare at en route.
Banff Sunshine Village is another huge ski area. With 137 runs, it’s an intermediate to advanced skier's paradise, boasting wide, open runs and plenty of tricky terrain too. Whilst there is expert terrain - that we didn't have time to get to - including the infamous Delerium Dive area, most of the runs are cruisey blues or speedy single blacks.
We spent the day exploring the pisted options and hitting as many lifts as we could. Andy enjoyed one of the best days skiing he's ever had in Sunshine Village:
"I left Sunshine Village with lasting memories when I last skied it many years ago, and this visit was everything I remembered and more. There’s a great variety of open terrain, a real sense of being properly up in the mountains, and glorious views of the Rockies stretching into both Alberta and British Columbia.
The snow delivered too, with great coverage across the mountain thanks to record snowfall in December ('Deep December' as the locals called it!). Conditions were confidence-inspiring, with plenty of grip, and hardly anyone around - giving us the freedom to choose our lines and really let rip."
"The single black diamond runs off the Great Divide Express (where you cross into Alberta and back into British Columbia on one chairlift) were a highlight - picture-perfect skiing! - and I also loved cruising down the runs off the Standish Express Quad. But the whole day was unbelievable - blue skies and empty slopes. I'll struggle to beat this day."
The snow at Sunshine Village is nearly all natural and is always in excellent condition. For us, this meant that despite no snow for a week before we arrived, the pistes were still some of the best we've ever skied/snowboarded. Sunshine consistently has the longest ski season in Canada, from early November to late May.
And it's not just great skiing here - the on-mountain dining options were superb. We opted to eat at Chimney Corner, located in the 4* Sunshine Mountain Lodge, the only ski-in ski-out hotel in Banff National Park. The choices were vast, with lunch ranging from pizza to a salmon burger. Delicious!
A superb stay in Banff town
Most customers choose to stay in the beautiful town of Banff, which is also where we stayed. With the buzzing town as your base, you can either drive to the nearby resorts of Lake Louise, Sunshine Village and Mt. Norquay, or get the free shuttle bus. There are places to stay near Lake Louise and at Sunshine Village, but Banff Town is a firm favourite - and it's not hard to see why.
The town has a real Canadian vibe to it - full of people who live there year-round, not just tourists. Situated in the heart of the Canadian Rockies, wherever we looked, the nearby mountains looked so close it felt like we could reach out and touch them. The town is very walkable, and has over 100 shops, bars and restaurants.
We collected our rentals from the SkiBig3 Adventure Hub, who were great and ensured we had all the right gear.
We asked locals for their top places to eat, and everyone recommended a different place, shortly followed by 'you can't go wrong!' - and this was indeed the case. We had burgers at The Boss, sushi at Hello Sunshine, prime rib at Bluebird, and dinner at 2,281 metres at Sky Bistro.
We stayed in the 3*+ Elk + Avenue Hotel, located right in downtown Banff. It had everything we needed, and the location was perfect, right next to a ski bus stop.
As part of Ski Safari's commitment to staying in or visiting all accommodation we sell, we checked out all of our hotel options in Banff, with an amazing selection on offer - our team are happy to help suggest the right one for you!
Skijoring - a must-see experience
Skijoring, an event which tours across the world, was happening in Banff during our visit. And it was a real spectacle!
Horses thundered down Banff Avenue, pulling skiers and snowboarders who held onto a rope. They then let go and used the speed gained to hit a ski jump. The town was buzzing, and the stunts were beyond belief. If you're thinking of visiting in January, try to line up your trip with skijoring. It's a great experience, with spectators in cowboy hats and fur coats. A real Canadian vibe!
Panoramic views from Banff Gondola
In just eight minutes on the Banff Gondola, we ascended 700 metres to the summit of Sulphur Mountain. At the top, there were panoramic views of Banff and the surrounding Rockies, as well as the Sky Bistro restaurant, where we had some great food. In the daytime, the floor-to-ceiling glass windows offer a special dining experience with a view you'll struggle to beat.
Top tip: we rode the gondola in the evening, and while it was incredible seeing Banff lit up in the dark, I'd suggest a sunset ride for the best of both worlds. However, the benefit of heading up when it's darker is that you have a chance to spot the Northern Lights - which we (sort of) did! But in actuality, the camera did a lot of heavy lifting...
Travelling from Banff to Panorama
Panorama is just a two-hour drive or transfer from Banff, which is why we offer this perfect combo on our Continental Divide Ski Safari.
We drove through Kootenay National Park, which provided beautiful tree-lined mountain views on either side of us as we left Alberta and crossed into British Columbia. It's worth noting that there is no phone signal for most of this drive, but it is one of the easiest drives you'll do, following one road and with hardly any traffic. We must have seen fewer than 20 cars in two hours!
Skiing in Panorama
We'd heard rave reviews about Panorama's super-wide groomers for intermediates and off-piste adventures for advanced skiers, so we couldn't wait to click into our skis and test them for ourselves.
We explored the Sun Bowl area from the Champagne Express lift, a charming tree-lined area filled with cruisey blue runs. There was no one around (a common theme on our trip, and Canada in general!), meaning we enjoyed a dreamy couple of laps, diving in and out of the trees and exploring new trails. We were guided by Panorama Sales Manager Lauren, who knew all the tips and local insights!
Champagne Express opens up some of my personal favourite slopes I've ever skied - wide, long, and a good pitch to really gain some speed for carving. If you're an intermediate or advanced skier, you'll be taking this chairlift a lot - and the best part is you can take it heaps of times and there is always a new route to take and run to try!
We skied across from the Champagne Express to the Summit Quad chair, which opened up views to rival those of Banff, and runs to rival anywhere. From the summit, you can access the Extreme Dream Zone, an area packed with single and double black diamonds, all directly from the chairlift.
We skied everything from tree-lined steeps to open mogul fields and steep groomers - all set against vast mountain vistas. I personally loved the following runs: View of 1000 Peaks, Stumbock's and Sidewinder Glades in the Extreme Dream Zone! This really put my 'advanced' skills to the test, but I progressed a lot and came out feeling so much more confident on expert terrain.
But that's not the extent of the expert skiing in Panorama...
Cat-skiing into Taynton Bowl
If the Extreme Dream Zone wasn’t enough, Andy and Josh couldn't resist some cat-skiing while we were in Panorama, so they walked up from the top of the summit lift to meet the Monster X Snowcat to tackle the infamous Taynton Bowl. This area is renowned for steep, deep and challenging expert terrain.
Andy describes his experience:
"Cat-skiing into Taynton Bowl was a fantastic experience - going up in the Monster X Cat was truly unique. We had fabulous weather, and the views were outstanding. It really felt like we were in the wilderness!"
"There was an endless choice to pick your lines from. We skied in the trees, in the open, in the shade and in the sun. It's fair to say we earned our turns! This terrain is for the expert skier - if that's you, Taynton Bowl has to be on your bucket list. I've skied all over the world for the past 45 years, and this was a ski day I won't forget"
Normally, cat-skiing is a whole day activity where you ski in the backcountry via a cat, but this is a unique in-resort option, which makes it easier to access previously hike-to terrain. It costs £15 per ride.
If you're looking to try heli-skiing, RK Heliski is just a 10-minute walk from the village area. This is the premier option for heli-skiing, catering for a wide range of abilities. Founded in 1970, it's one of the longest-running heliski operations in the world.
Night skiing in Panorama
The final turns of the trip came under the Friday night lights, as the floodlights lit up the baby snow park and the main 'Showoff' slope off the Mile 1 Express lift. This lift starts directly from the base area.
Showoff is a wide, rolling and relatively steep blue that turns into a green as it flattens out towards the end - it's a super fun run, and even more fun when it's lit up!
This was my first time trying night skiing, and it was spectacular. The sun set lower on each lap, illuminating the sky in deep orange before fading into darkness. There's a real sense of freedom that comes with night skiing, and it was loads of fun. A great way to end a bucket list trip!
Off the slopes in Panorama
The Approach and the hot springs
Panorama is one of the most convenient ski resorts in the world. We chose to stay in ski-in ski-out 3* The Approach, a hotel right on the slopes. The rooms were cosy, with all the basics and everything we needed for a comfortable stay. It's located right at the heart of the action (as is everything in Panorama!).
While The Approach has its own hot tubs, we had to check out Canada's largest slopeside hot pools at the 4* Panorama Springs Lodge, a minute's walk from the hotel.
Access is included in your stay at The Approach, so we thought we’d make the most of it! Relaxing in the hot pools after a day on the slopes was as rejuvenating as it was peaceful, watching the steam rise and dissipate into the air.
Everything we needed, on our doorstep!
From the base of the slopes, we found everything we needed: the rental shop (collection was seamless), ski-in ski-out accommodation, buzzing bars, delicious restaurants, and relaxing hot pools. There's also a village gondola that takes just two minutes to swoop you down into the village area. Here you'll find a small supermarket, a pretty stream and more accommodation options. It's all on your doorstep in Panorama!
Delicious food and authentic drinks
T-Bar & Grill was right next to our hotel, and acts as the social hub of Panorama. It was the go-to for après ski and casual dining. We did our best to test out as many of the cocktails and beers on the menu as we could, including the classic Canadian 'Caesar' cocktail (vodka, Clamato juice, hot sauce and Worcestershire sauce).
Alto Kitchen & Bar, next door to T-Bar, provided a more traditional, higher-end dining experience. We had both breakfast and dinner here, and both were superb.
Our dinner choice for our second night was at 'Chopper's Landing' at the RK Heliski base - worth the walk for sure!
For lunches, Alto and T-Bar were both great options. There's also Spud Hut, where we enjoyed a well-topped jacket potato, and The Great Hall for canteen-style dining. On-mountain, there are some huts to fuel up and warm up in, with our favourite being the Summit Hut (be sure to try the Ginga Ninja Chai Latte and chocolate cookie!).
Did our Continental Divide Ski Safari live up to expectations?
This was truly the trip of a lifetime for me, smashing all expectations I had of skiing in Canada.
The slopes are incredibly quiet; we didn't queue for a lift the entire trip! Plus, it's true 'ski anywhere' terrain, and it's all patrolled, even the off-piste. I had a great time dipping in and out of the trees and into off-piste sections - something that's not quite the same in the Alps!
And the Canadian people were very courteous, similarly so to Norwegians, and have a real lust for life and the outdoors. The whole experience is hard to put into words. My advice? Book that ski holiday to Canada, you won't regret it!
The culture, vibe and atmosphere in Banff Town, combined with the most scenic skiing I've ever done and terrain to suit any skier or snowboarder, was a special experience and one I couldn't speak more highly of. Panorama's ski-in ski-out convenience, outdoor hot pools and dreamy intermediate / advanced terrain were the best way to end our trip and made for the perfect combination with Banff.
Tempted?
If you want to experience some of the world's best and most beautiful skiing for yourself, our Continental Divide Ski Safari is a no-brainer. Plus, it's one of our best value ski safaris in North America, with 12 nights from £2,279 including flights, transfers and accommodation.
We're here to help with our first-hand knowledge and will tailor-make every aspect of the itinerary to suit you. Enquire online or call our team on 01273 224060 (Monday to Friday, 9am to 5:30pm).
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I’ve been skiing for as long as I can remember. There's no better place to be than in the mountains, looking out at spectacular views - particularly the fjords in Norway and the Rockies in Canada!
