We skied in Are and Riksgransen between 6 March and 16 March 2013. We spent the first 5 nights at the Hotel Diplomat in Are, which is a very comfortable, welcoming and well located hotel. There was more than enough skiing to keep us happy for 4 days, and the terrain is sufficiently varied across the different areas of the resort to maintain interest. While there are not many challenging runs, there are plenty of good intermediate runs, and the views are excellent. The town of Are has a good variety of bars and restaurants, all of a high standard, with some of the restaurants offering a true Nordic gourmet experience. To sample the best of Swedish and Nordic craft beers seek out the wonderful small bar 'Olbaren' where you will be guided through some reassuringly expensive and super tasty brews. We then transferred from Are to Riksgransen by rail. This was a fantastic experience. We left Are late in the evening after a good dinner, and after changing trains at Bracke shortly after midnight, we were installed in our sleeper cabin. Although bijou, the bunks were amazingly comfortable and we slept quite soundly until around 8am, when we awoke to endless views of snowy wilderness. We finally rolled in to Riksgransen late in the afternoon after a memorable journey. In Riksgransen we stayed at the Meteorologen Ski Lodge for 4 night. The rooms are very comfortable and tastefully decorated in keeping with the building. The hotel is run by Patrik who as well as being a former ski racer knows a thing or two about hotel management, food and above all wine (he is a qualified sommelier). The food and wine and wine that we experienced during our 4 nights was easily the best we have had on any ski trip, and all enjoyed in a relaxed and informal atmosphere but with impeccable service. And lest I forget, the skiing. To ski in the Arctic is an amazing frontier experience. We were there at the start of their season, but there was more than enough daylight to ensure tired legs. It was cold (some days -20 Celsius with wind chill down to -30), but well worth it for the deserted slopes and amazing snow quality. Patrik loaned us (no charge) some fat Salomon skis that were perfect for the conditions. We had minimal fresh snow while we were there but still found good untracked snow every day. We finished our stay in Riksgransen with a heliski trip on the final afternoon. This was only the second heli flight of the season (the first being earlier that day). We were picked up from the car park at the Meteorologen and were soon descending thigh deep, super-light powder in a stunning wilderness. The heli is certainly recommended. We would certainly consider going back to Riksgransen and Meteorologen, possibly for some midsummer skiing. Overall, this was a great trip. The whole Swedish ski vibe is very different to the Alps or North America, and that is part of its appeal. The skiing may be less extensive, but is certainly not limited, and the cultural experience was a positive change from other ski holidays. Sweden is not a cheap country, but the quality of the food is very high. In Are there are options covering a range of price points. We only dined at Meteorologen in Riksgransen, and went somewhat off-piste on the wine list, but there is only so much financial damage you can do in 4 nights, and it was more than worth it. I have published a selection of photos on Flickr at: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjEqEhUc
Graham Disney
4th November 2013
