Going Deep into the Powder Triangle

Brand new to our self-drive, multi-resort programme for winter 2019/20, the Powder Triangle Ski Safari is a true powder-hunting, steep-slope-riding, backcountry-boosting, off the beaten track mega trip! It takes in not only the three lesser-known but legendary resorts of RED, Whitewater and, new for us this year, Schweitzer Mountain Resort, but also covers Canada's highest and most spectacular drive, the Kootenay Pass, genuine mountain towns and spans two countries, Canada and the USA.

The resort tag lines sum it up pretty well:

• RED Mountain Resort - "The last great unspoilt resort"
• Whitewater - "Pure, simple and real deep"
• Schweitzer Mountain Resort - "The biggest mountain you've never skied"

In my own words, this is real skiing, where powder and terrain are your only concerns and these resorts have it in abundance. I first visited RED and Whitewater in 2003 whilst living and working in Whistler. The chance to escape the ‘state of the art’ mega-resort was exciting - I was keen to experience a back to basics, truly independent ski trip. One where I could spend more time enjoying a small mountain town culture and getting to know locals who were only too keen to show me where those powder stashes were and how to access the incredible steeps and tree skiing on offer in both resorts.

Anyone who has visited RED will tell you just how much they rate it. At 4,200 acres it's now the eighth largest resort in North America, and when you drop into Powder Fields off the Motherlode Chair, or the hair-raising Chute Show off Grey Mountain Chair you can see why it holds such appeal. From the trip in 2003 and this most recent one, one stand-out memory is the lack of skiers and snowboarders on the mountain. Never a lift queue, powder for days, not hours, with enormous vert and long runs to enjoy. This is a direct result of being off the beaten track. Harder to get to, fewer people visit, more powder for those that do. RED is fiercely independent: in fact their ‘Fight the man, own the mountain’ crowdfunding campaign has raised over $1.5 million so far. Individuals now own a slice of RED, making it harder to sell to a big resort operator, keeping it real for those lucky enough to visit.

The alpine terrain at Whitewater is every bit as incredible as you find in Whistler or other signature resorts such as Revelstoke, Kicking Horse, Jackson Hole and Snowbird. You just have to know where you are going, which is easily achieved by hiring an IN Deep guide for just $40 for a two hour session. Within that time frame you will know where to head and how to access the very best of the powder, and once you know, you are always in deep.

What I love about Whitewater, aside from the most insane steeps (56% advanced terrain) and backcountry, is the lack of any internet or phone signal. Here they encourage you to put the phone away and focus on the skiing and riding. This deliberate ploy is something they are proud of and might be the reason that the resort produces multiple freeride world champions. We spend so much time connected to the digital world that we forget how important it is to be connected to the real world, one that involves bonkers steep skiing and waist-deep pow. From this last visit I can wholeheartedly confirm that 45 degree steep face shots of cold smoke is definitely worth putting the phone away for, and besides if you fall like I did then you’ll probably lose it anyway.

I am pleased to report that aside from a stunning new luxury boutique hotel in RED, The Josie, not much has changed at all in 15 years in the two resorts. The lifts are pretty much the same, the locals from RED's nearby cool town of Rossland and the diehards from Nelson, 15 minutes from Whitewater, are 16 years older but still there, and still crushing the terrain.

In 2008 while enjoying the views of Lake Tahoe from Heavenly I asked my guide one of the most commonly asked chairlift questions, “where is your favourite place to ski?”. The answer was instant, “Schweitzer in Idaho. It's simple - best terrain on the planet and no one there!”. Since that day I've been told so many positives about this little-known resort, Idaho’s largest, with arguably the best ski terrain I have experienced in the last few years.

On top of that, the easiest way to get to RED is to fly into Spokane, Washington, which also happens to be just 90 miles from Schweitzer - so adding it to the itinerary was a no brainer!

Schweitzer comes alive for those looking for a serious amount of world-class ski and snowboard terrain in a super-quiet resort with high speed lifts. As the resort owns all its own land, mountain improvements happen with immediate effect. This summer is no exception, with the resort completing construction of two new lifts to replace the old Snow Ghost chair, vastly improving uphill capacity, access to some of the under-utilised intermediate terrain and to the steep stuff of Lakeside Chutes. In addition the resort has logged 300 acres which provide some fun new terrain in the wild North Bowl.

My own experience is one I will never forget. Completely empty slopes, deep untracked snow, easily accessible off-piste, 40 degree, perfectly groomed pistes and long, fast blues, a compact pretty village, plus a unique ski through an old wooden barn to take the chairlift back up the mountain. The highlight for me, however, is the 6,000 ft ridge line, providing endless options into two enormous alpine bowls, Schweitzer Bowl and Outback Bowl. 90% is classed as intermediate or above so not ideal for beginners but what an option for those that love days skiing hard and fast or lapping the powder bowls! When the legs give out you can relax in the mountaintop Sky House restaurant with its views of three states (Washington, Idaho & Montana), plus views into Canada. At Schweitzer you WILL have powder for days. And to top it all you'll have simply incredible views over Lake Pend Oreille.

If you are an adventurous intermediate or above you will get the most from this trip. Backcountry and powder-loving experts will be in absolute paradise.

I recommend a flight into Spokane, Washington, USA. Our flight was with Delta via Seattle for nine and a half hours, then a 60 minute flight into Spokane.

Car only. I recommend flying into Spokane as the route to RED doesn't involve any mountain passes. It's an easy three hours to RED, a quick show of passports at the border crossing 20 minutes from the mountain. RED to Whitewater is 60 minutes. Whitewater to Schweitzer is three hours taking in the spectacular Kootenay Pass. You will also head back over the border, so allow a few extra minutes for passport control, where the officers see so few people that they enjoy a good chat!

Cat-skiing. British Columbia is the birthplace and spiritual home of cat-skiing and Big Red Cats are the biggest and best. I spent a day with them exploring some of the most incredible and fun terrain, from tight trees to wide-open powder meadows. BRC have over 20,000 acres available and operate an incredibly slick outfit. Packages are available for intermediates to full on experts and professionals so you will always be with people of the same or similar standard. Unlike heli-skiing, cat-skiing goes whatever the weather so a powder guarantee is in place and for as little as £325pp that’s seriously good value for a full day of upward of 12 life-changing virgin powder runs.

You can also cat-ski at Schweitzer's summit, where they have 4,000 acres allocated and run excursions most days for around £300pp.

Talk to Andy for more information or to book on 01273 224060 or request a quotation online.